Which Chimney Kit Do I Need? How to Choose Stove Pipe and Chimney for Your Wood Stove
Updated November 2026
You've picked a wood stove. Next you have to work out what connects it to the outdoors: the stove pipe, the chimney, and the parts that carry the chimney through your ceiling, roof or wall. Most people get stuck here. The parts list is long, each part comes in several sizes, and one wrong piece can hold up the whole installation.
This guide breaks the venting decision into five choices. Work through them in order and you'll know which chimney kit fits your home and which options to select.
New to wood stove venting? Start with our Wood Stove Chimney Guide for how chimneys work and what each part does. This guide picks up where that one leaves off.
The Short Answer
Most new freestanding wood stove installations with a 6-inch flue use a 6-inch Class A insulated chimney and one of three routes:
- Flat ceiling with an attic above: the chimney goes straight up through the ceiling, the attic and the roof.
- Vaulted or cathedral ceiling: the chimney goes up through a sloped ceiling and directly out the roof.
- Through the wall: the stove pipe runs out a side wall, and the chimney climbs the outside of the house.
Once you know your route, you need four more things:
- Your stove pipe type: single wall or double wall.
- Two or three measurements.
- Your roof pitch.
- Whether you want stove pipe included in the kit.
If your stove will connect to an existing masonry chimney or fireplace, you need a chimney liner instead of a kit. See the masonry section of our chimney guide.
Step 1: Pick Your Route
Your ceiling and walls decide the route more than the stove does. Find the row that matches your room:
| Your room | Route | Kit to start with |
|---|---|---|
| Flat ceiling with an attic or crawl space above | Straight up through the ceiling, attic and roof | Flat Ceiling Chimney Kit |
| Vaulted or cathedral ceiling, roof pitch 0/12 to 6/12 | Up through the sloped ceiling and out the roof | Vaulted Ceiling Kit, 0/12–6/12 |
| Vaulted or cathedral ceiling, roof pitch 7/12 to 12/12 | Up through the sloped ceiling and out a steep roof | Vaulted Ceiling Kit, 7/12–12/12 |
| Stove sits near an exterior wall, or a straight-up path is blocked | Out through the wall, then up the outside of the house | Through-the-Wall Chimney Kit |
| Existing brick or stone chimney or fireplace | A liner inside the existing chimney | Not a kit: have the chimney inspected and use a listed liner |
Which is best? When you have a choice, a straight-up chimney through the ceiling usually drafts best. It has the fewest turns, and most of its height stays warm inside the house. A through-the-wall chimney works well too, but it carries more parts and spends more of its length outdoors in the cold.
Check your flue size first. Our DuraTech kits are 6-inch. Look at the flue collar on top of your stove, or at the venting section of its manual. Most small and mid-size wood stoves use 6 inches, but some larger stoves need 8 inches. Don't change the diameter unless the stove manufacturer allows it.
Step 2: Single Wall or Double Wall Stove Pipe
Stove pipe, also called connector pipe, runs from the top of the stove to where the chimney starts: the ceiling support box, or the wall thimble on a through-the-wall install. It stays inside the room. You can choose either type:
| Single wall (black) | Double wall (DVL) | |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Lower | Higher |
| Clearance to walls and furniture | Typically 18 inches | As little as 6 inches with listed stoves |
| Outside surface | Very hot | Cooler |
| Draft | Good | Better: the flue stays hotter |
| Best for | Open rooms with plenty of space around the stove | Tight corners, alcoves, high ceilings and long pipe runs |
Double wall pipe usually pays for itself when the stove has to sit near a wall, or when you want the stove pipe clearance to stop deciding your room layout. Your stove's manual lists the exact clearances for each pipe type. Those numbers rule.
Our flat ceiling and through-the-wall kits come in both versions. The vaulted ceiling kits come with double wall pipe only, because the long stove pipe run under a high ceiling is where double wall's lower clearance and better draft matter most.
Step 3: Take Your Measurements
Every kit is sized from a few tape-measure readings. Taking them first means you pick the right options the first time.
Flat ceiling with an attic
- A. Attic height: measure from the ceiling up to the underside of the roof, at the spot where the chimney will pass through.
- B. Height above the roof: read this from the 3-2-10 chart below. On most roofs it's 3 to 7 feet.
- Chimney length = A + B. Pick the kit length at or just above your total. Example: a 3-foot attic plus 5 feet above the roof is 8 feet, so choose the 8 ft kit.
- C. Stove top to ceiling: measure from the top of the stove to the ceiling. This sets how much stove pipe the kit includes. Choose "Up to 70 in" or "70 to 94 in". If you fall between sizes, choose the longer one.
Vaulted or cathedral ceiling
- A. Roof and ceiling depth: measure from the ceiling surface up to the roof surface, at the chimney's location. If there's an attic space between the ceiling and the roof, include it, and choose "Attic above" in the kit options.
- B. Height above the roof: read this from the 3-2-10 chart.
- Chimney length = A + B. Example: 1 foot of roof plus 4 feet above it is 5 feet, so choose the 5 ft kit.
- C. Stove top to ceiling: measure from the top of the stove to the ceiling, at the low side of the opening. The vaulted kits offer three stove pipe ranges, up to 118 inches.
Through the wall
- A. Tee to the roof edge: measure from the center of the wall opening up to where the chimney will pass the roof edge or overhang.
- B. Height above the roof: read this from the 3-2-10 chart, measuring from the roof edge.
- Chimney height = A + B. Kits run from 6 to 24 feet in 2-foot steps. Example: 9 feet to the roof plus 3 feet above it is 12 feet, so choose the 12 ft kit.
- Wall thickness: the wall thimble in our kits fits walls up to about 9-1/2 inches thick. Thicker walls need an extension, so contact us before you order.
How tall above the roof? The 3-2-10 rule
Your chimney has to clear the roof by enough to draft well and to keep sparks away from shingles. The common minimum is the 3-2-10 rule (NFPA 211): the top of the chimney must be at least 3 feet above where it exits the roof, and at least 2 feet higher than any part of the roof or building within 10 feet horizontally. Whichever requirement is taller wins.
The closer the chimney is to the ridge, the less it has to clear. Far from the ridge, on a steep roof, the 10-foot measurement can land high up the slope, and the chimney gets much taller. Use the chart below with your roof pitch and your distance from the ridge:
💡 Pro Tip: Your stove manual may set a minimum total chimney height, often 12 to 15 feet from the stove to the cap. If your measurements come out lower, choose a longer kit. A little extra height almost always helps draft.
Taller than 5 feet above the roof? You need a roof bracket
DuraVent requires an extended roof bracket whenever more than 5 feet of chimney stands above the roof. Without one, wind and snow load can stress the joints. Our kits handle this for you:
- Lengths marked "includes roof bracket" come with the DuraTech Extended Roof Bracket.
- Every through-the-wall kit includes one, because a chimney at the eave nearly always stands tall above its last support.
Step 4: Know Your Roof Pitch
Roof pitch decides which flashing your kit includes. Flashing is the weatherproof collar that seals the chimney to the roof. Pitch is written as rise over run: a 6/12 roof rises 6 inches for every 12 inches you move toward the ridge.
How to measure it:
- Hold a level flat against the underside of a rafter in the attic, or on the roof surface.
- Mark 12 inches along the level.
- Measure straight up from that mark to the roof. That number is your rise.
| Roof pitch | What it looks like | Flashing option |
|---|---|---|
| 0/12 – 6/12 | Flat to moderate; most ranches, garages and additions | "0/12 - 6/12" |
| 7/12 – 12/12 | Steep; many colonials, capes and A-frames | "7/12 - 12/12" |
The standard flashing works on asphalt shingle roofs. Metal and tile roofs need a different flashing. Contact us before ordering and we'll match the right part to your roof.
Step 5: Through-the-Wall Options
Through-the-wall kits have two extra choices.
Cleanout section
The tee is the T-shaped fitting outside the wall where the horizontal pipe turns upward. You can support it in one of two ways:
- Add 12" section, bracket below the tee (recommended): a short section hangs below the tee, with a removable cap at the bottom. Soot and creosote fall into it, and you can clean the chimney from the ground without going on the roof.
- None, bracket above the tee: a slightly simpler install with one less part. The tee's cap sits at the bottom of the tee, so plan to clean from the cap.
Roof overhang
If the chimney climbs past an eave, it either clears the overhang or passes through it:
- If you can cut the overhang back, or the chimney stands clear of it, choose "No flashing".
- If the chimney goes through the overhang, choose the option that matches your roof pitch. The kit then includes flashing and a storm collar.
Step 6: Complete Kit or Chimney Only?
Every route comes in two versions:
- Complete kit: includes the stove pipe from the stove to the chimney. This is the right choice for most new installs.
- Chimney only (no stove pipe): everything from the ceiling support box or wall thimble outward, without stove pipe. Choose this if you already have stove pipe in good condition, if your stove manual requires a specific connector, or if you're replacing an old chimney but keeping the stove pipe.
What's in a Complete Kit
Each kit is built from DuraVent DuraTech parts. DuraTech is a 6-inch Class A chimney, listed to UL 103HT and rated for wood, coal, oil and gas. It needs just 2 inches of clearance to combustibles. A flat ceiling kit, for example, includes:
- Chimney cap
- Storm collar and roof flashing
- Class A chimney pipe to your selected length
- Extended roof bracket, when your length needs one
- Attic insulation shield, to keep insulation away from the pipe
- 11-inch square ceiling support box
- Telescoping stove pipe sized to your stove-to-ceiling height
Not included: hearth pad or floor protection, sealant, fasteners, and permits. You also need extra parts for a chimney that passes through a second floor or needs an offset around a rafter or ridge. Contact us for those installs and we'll put the parts list together.
Quick Reference: Which Kit Do I Need?
| Situation | Kit | Options to choose |
|---|---|---|
| Flat ceiling, attic above | Flat Ceiling, Single Wall or Double Wall | Stove top to ceiling · Roof pitch · Chimney length (5–12 ft) |
| Vaulted ceiling, 0/12–6/12 roof | Vaulted, 0/12–6/12 | Stove top to ceiling · Attic above? · Chimney length (3–10 ft) |
| Vaulted ceiling, 7/12–12/12 roof | Vaulted, 7/12–12/12 | Stove top to ceiling · Attic above? · Chimney length (3–10 ft) |
| Through an exterior wall | Through-the-Wall, Single Wall or Double Wall | Chimney height (6–24 ft) · Roof overhang · Cleanout section |
| Keeping your existing stove pipe | Flat, Vaulted or Through-the-Wall Chimney Only | Same as above, without stove pipe |
See every option side by side in our Chimney Kits collection. To shop stove pipe kits and chimney kits together, browse Chimney & Stove Pipe Kits.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use stove pipe to go through the ceiling or wall?
No. Stove pipe is only for the open run inside the room. Wherever the vent passes through a ceiling, attic, wall or roof, it must be a listed Class A chimney with the correct support and clearance parts.
What if my measurement falls between two kit lengths?
Choose the longer length. A chimney that's slightly taller than the minimum drafts better, while one that's too short can smoke and fail inspection.
Do I need a roof bracket?
Yes, whenever more than 5 feet of chimney stands above the roof. Kit lengths marked "includes roof bracket" already include it, and so does every through-the-wall kit. Very steep roofs may need a second bracket. Contact us if your roof is steeper than about 9/12 and the chimney is far from the ridge.
Should I choose single wall or double wall stove pipe?
Choose single wall if you have plenty of open space around the stove and want to save money. Choose double wall if the stove sits close to a wall, under a high ceiling, or in a tight room. Your stove manual lists the exact clearances for each.
My roof is metal. Will the kit work?
The chimney will, but the standard flashing is made for shingle roofs. Contact us and we'll swap in flashing designed for metal or tile.
Do I need a permit?
Often, yes. Many towns require a permit and inspection for a new wood stove and chimney, and many insurers want to be told. Check with your local building department before you install.
Can I add a snow splitter?
Yes. On roofs with heavy snow or ice sliding toward the chimney, a DuraTech snow splitter mounts on the uphill side and protects the flashing. It's offered as an add-on on each kit page.
Ready to Choose?
Start with your route, decide on single or double wall stove pipe, and take your measurements. Those three things tell you exactly which kit and options to choose. Every kit ships with the parts DuraVent requires for that setup, so you don't have to build a parts list piece by piece.
👉 Shop Chimney Kits | Shop Chimney & Stove Pipe Kits
Related Wood Stove Guides
- Wood Stove Chimney Guide: Types, Sizing & Safety
- How to Install a Wood Stove: Planning, Chimney & Safety Guide
- How to Choose the Right Wood Stove: 7 Buying Decisions
- Wood Stove Safety Guide: Installation, Operation & Emergency Tips
- Wood Stove Maintenance Guide
This guide is for planning purposes. Always follow your stove manufacturer's venting instructions, DuraVent's installation instructions and your local building codes, which may require more than the minimums described here. Consult a qualified installer if you're unsure about any part of your installation.
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